If you can't decide whether to go... - Los Angeles Times
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If you can’t decide whether to go...

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If you can’t decide whether to go Armenian, Italian, Lebanese or Greek for dinner, consider Papa Garo’s, a Redondo Beach restaurant that combines those four influences to create a vivid cuisine with a refreshing variety of menu choices.

Opened 20 years ago by Garo and Zabel Dilsizian, the family-run restaurant is now owned by their son, Raffi, who takes pride in the fresh herbs, organic vegetables, sun-dried tomatoes and even sun-dried sea salt represented on the menu.

On one side of the restaurant is an open kitchen partially hidden by rows of wine bottles. On the other is a long banquette that runs along a wall highlighted by three large paintings by the Armenian artist Emil.

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To start, try Baba Ghanouj ($5.50), charbroiled eggplant mixed with sesame paste, lemon, tomato, parsley, garlic and olive oil, or the Armenian soup ($1.95 a cup), a rich chicken stock loaded with vegetables, chicken and topped with spinach and mozzarella.

Lamb shank ($7.95) is a popular lunch specialty. The shank is baked and then coated with a barbecue sauce and finished off on the grill.

Lamb, prepared several ways, is again the star of the dinner menu. One of the more popular variations is the Spring Lamb Kabob ($13.50), made with meat from the more expensive loin rather than the leg. Marinated in pomegranate juice, garlic, bay leaves and rosemary, this flavorful dish is accompanied by rice pilaf, vegetables and either soup or salad.

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Cioppino , the Italian seafood stew, is crammed with New Zealand mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp and daily fresh fish, based in a marinara sauce and served with garlic bread ($13.95).

Pizza fans are well taken care of by Mama’s Gourmet Pizza with such toppings as smoked salmon, halibut and scallops.

Papa Garo, 1810 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach. Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. No smoking allowed. (310) 540-7272.

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